MALVA, not to be mixed with a tract of this name in Central India, is one of the three main divisions of the present Punjab state of India, the other two being Majha and Doaba. It is in the shape of a rough parallelogram lying between 29°-30 and 31°-10 North latitudes and 73°-50 and 76°-50\' East longitudes, bounded by the River Sutlej in the north, Haryana in the east and the south, Rajasthan in the southwest corner, and by Bahawalpur state of Pakistan in the west. Malva comprises eleven of the seventeen administrative districts of the Punjab, viz., Firozpur, Faridkot, Moga, Muktsar, Bathinda, Sangrur, Mansa, Ludhiana, Patiala, Fatehgarh Sahib and Ropar excluding its Nurpur Bedi tahsil or sub-division which falls across the Sutlej and geographically lies in the Doaba region. G.A. Grierson, Linguistic Survey of India, Vol. IX, Part I, who based his demarcation on the spoken dialect Malvai, would exclude the present Patiala, Fatehgarh Sahib and Ropar districts and part of Ludhiana district from Malva because of a different dialect, Povadhi, spoken there. But because of demographical changes consequent upon partition of the country (1947) and subsequent allocation of a major part of Povadhi-speaking area to the newly created state of Haryana (1966), it is not inappropriate to call the entire cis Sutlej tract of the present Punjab as Malva. Malva is a dialectical variation of the Sanskrit word Mallava which was the name of an ancient tribe (Malloi of the Greek accounts) who challenged, though unsuccessfully, the might of Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC and might have later migrated to the south of the Sutlej, giving the name Malva, the land of the Mallavas, to their new homeland. With an area of 32,808 square km and a population of 11,817,142 (1991 census), Malva is the largest region of the present Punjab. It has 65.1 per cent of the total area and 58.5 per cent of the total population 360.1 per square km against 401 per square km for the entire state. The density of population district-wise varies vastly between Ludhiana (629) and Firozpur (272). Till the latter part of the nineteenth century, Malva, leaving aside a narrow strip along the Sutlej, was an arid semi-desert covered with slow-growing trees such as van (Quercus incana) and jand (Prosopis spicigera) and thorny bushes like karir (Capparis aphylla) and malha beri, a kind of jujube. Although by and large a plain country, the region, especially its southern and southwestern parts, had become undulated with mounds of sand blown in from Rajasthan by southwesterly winds. Cultivation was almost entirely dependent upon rain which was erratic and usually scanty. Introduction of canal irrigation with the renovation of Sirhind canal initiated a change which, strengthened by later developments, especially the harnessing of water resources and the availablity of cheap hydro-electricity, culminated in intensive agriculture of the 1960\'s and the following decades, and transformed the face of Malva and helped make Punjab the granary of India. The hardy farmers of the region including those brought here in the aftermath of the partition of the country in 1947 have converted the former forest and sandy mounds into neatly marked lush green farmlands. Major crops grown are wheat, paddy, cotton and oil seeds, sugarcane, cultivation picking up rapidly since the beginning of the 1980\'s. This coupled with the growth of small and medium-scale industry, though at a slower pace, has brought in prosperity which in turn is resulting in a perceptible change for the better in education and cultural fields, although literacy rate (45.6 per cent) still lags behind the state average (49.2 per cent). As in the case of density of population, there is vast variation also in district-wise literacy rate which ranges between 57.2 per cent for Ludhiana (highest in the state) and 32.8 per cent for Sangrur. Yet, of the three universities in the state, two are located in Malva-Punjab Agricultureal University at Ludhiana and Punjabi University at Patiala, besides an autonomous college of engineering and technology at Patiala. Similarly, of the four medical colleges in the whole of Punjab three are located in the Malva region. In the industrial field, Malva, with its two huge thermal plants, one each at Bathinda and Ropar, and industrial complexes at Ludhiana, Rajpura, Sahibzada Ajit Singh Nagar (Mohali) and Mandi Gobindgarh, is far ahead of the other two regions. According to 1991 census figures, of the ten Punjab towns having a population of over 100,000 each, five lie in Malva. Ludhiana (1, 012, 062, persons) is the most populous city in the state. Malva\'s part in the history of the Sikhs dates back to the time of Guru Nanak, whose peregrinations also covered this ancient land. Guru Angad\'s birthplace, Sarai Nanga, lies in the Malva. Guru Hargobind, Guru Har Rai, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Guru Gobind Singh travelled extensively through this area. Many eminent Sikhs such as Bhai Bhagatu, Bhai Bahilo and Bhai Mani Sihgh came from Malva. The years following the death in 1708 of Guru Gobind Sihgh were the most turbulent period of the history of the Sikhs when the Mughal governors of the Punjab and later the Afghan invaders had let loose a reign of terror and religious persecution against the Sikhs. The jungles of Malva, with their comparative inaccessibility on account of shortage of water and other scarcities impeding large-scale operations, provided the warring Sikh bands from across the Sutlej with a natural sanctuary. Some local Sikh sardars, descendants of Bhai Phul blessed by Guru Hargobind and Guru Har Rai and collectively known as Phulkiari misl, carved out territories over which they ruled as independent or semi-independent chiefs. This is how the former Sikh states of Patiala, Nabha, Jind, Faridkot, Kalsia, Kaithal and Ladva came into existence. When Maharaja Ranjit Singh rose to power north of the Sutlej and started amalgamating other misi territories to his own dominions, the states south of the Sutlej known as cis Sutlej states, sought protection under the British, whose suzerainty they accepted. They became tributaries of the British empire while the districts of Ludhiana and Firozpur came under the latter\'s direct rule. Of these Sikh states, Kaithal lapsed to the British dominions on the death, without a male heir, of its last ruler, Bhai Udai Singh, in 1845, and Ladva was annexed as a punishment to its ruler, Sardar Ajit Singh, for his open support to Sikh government of Lahore during the first Anglo-Sikh war (1845-46). The remaining five Punjab Sikh states and the Muslim state of Malerkotla continued to exist till after the independence of India, 1947. In May 1948, they in combination with Kapurthala in the Doaba region and the submountainous Hindu state of Nalagarh formed themselves into what was called the Patiala and East Punjab States Union, PEPSU for short. In 1956 PEPSU was amalgamated with the Punjab, which was further split into Haryana and the Punjabi speaking state of the Punjab on 1 November 1966.
KANAKVAL KALAN (also called Kanakval Bhariguah), a village 25 km southwest of Sunam (30°7`N, 75°48`E) in Sangrur district of the Punjab, is sacred to Guru Tegh Bahadur, who visited it during one of his travels through the Malva territory. Gurdwara Sahib Nauviri Patshahi which honours his memory is situated half a kilometre to the northwest of the village across a minor canal distribute ry. Constructed in 1921, it comprises a square domed sanctum, with cubicles on either side and an assembly hall in front. The Gurdwara is maintained by the village sangat and is served by a lone Nihahg who is a native of the village. Seven acres of land arc attached to it for its maintenance.
GURU KI DHAB, also known by its old name of Doda Tal, is north of Jaito (30°26`N, 74°53`E). Guru Gobind Singh passed through here travelling from the nearby village of Saravan during his journey westward from Dina in December 1705. The tdlor dhdb, lit. a large pond, came to be known as Guru ki Dhab in honour of the Guru`s sojourn. Most of the area has since been reclaimed for cultivation, but a gurudwara, with a small octagonal sarovar by its side, was constructed during the 1970`s. Large gatherings take place on every fullmoon day and the first of every Bikrami month attracts devotees in large numbers, especially women with small children, from the surrounding villages.
ALI SHER, village 18 km north of Mansa (29°59\'N, 75°23\'E) in Bathinda district of the Punjab, was visited by Guru Tegh Bahadur during his travels in the Malva region. Arriving from Pandher, he sat outside the village. The panchayat, or village elders, of Pandher, who had shown little attention to him in their own village, on realizing their error came to All Sher to ask for pardon. They brought with them offerings of gur (jaggery) and money. On the way they met a person who was returning after seeing the Guru. They asked his advice as to what offerings they might present to the Guru to have their lapse condoned. He replied, "None. The Guru is compassionate. He overlooks the faults of others." The residents of Pandher distributed amongst themselves the gur and money they had brought, and went to the Guru empty handed. The Guru instructed them in the path of virtue and honest living. The shrine established in memory of Guru Tegh Bahadur was developed into a proper gurdwara during the nineteenth century and was endowed by the rulers of Patiala in whose territory All Sher lay. The Gurdwara now owns 12 acres of land and is administered by the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee.
SHAHPUR KALAN, a village 13 km west of Sunam (30"7`N, 75"48`E) in Sangrur district of the Punjab, is sacred to Guru Tegh Bahadur who, during one of his journeys through the Malva country, came and stayed here near the pond north of the village. Gurdwara Mahji Sahib Patshahi IX, which marks the site, comprises a Mahji Sahib and a Darbar Sahib. The former is a square domed room, with a circumambulatory verandah. The Darbar Sahib is a separate hall with a square sanctum in the middle and a high vaulted ceiling. The Guru Granth Sahib is seated in both buildings. The Gurdwara is managed by a committee of the village sangat.
BARHE, village 6 km southwest of Budhlada Mandi (29° 55`N, 75° 33`E) in Bathinda district of the Punjab, is sacred to Guru Tegh Bahadur, who, according to the Sakhi Pothi, spent a rainy season here, while travelling through the Malva country. Gurdwara Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib commemorating the visit is on the northwestern outskirts of the village, near a big pond a part of which has been converted into a sarovar. An extensive complex has developed around the old Manji Sahib, a domed room with a square platform within it, near an old van tree.
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